Commuting, BA Style

The public transit system in Buenos Aires is a marvel. There is an extensive bus system that covers every part of the city and several Subte (metro, subway, whatever) lines that cover the bulk of the core neighborhoods. The Subte runs until around 10:30pm while the buses run all day and night. The cost for this is AR$1.10 for the Subte and around AR$1.25 for the bus (between US$0.25 and US$0.35 depending on the exchange rate).

The crown jewel of the public transit system is undoubtedly the Guia “T“. I go almost nowhere without it. How is it possible that one little booklet, which fits nicely into your back pocket, can contain so much information? It combines a comprehensive map of the city, think a Thomas Guide, with a complete public transit schedule. All this for around AR$6 (the price varies based on what the kiosk owner thinks you can afford). But that isn’t all. Upset about some governmental ruling and want to storm one of the cities major TV stations? The Guia “T” will show you were to go. Running out of gas? Help, Guia “T“! Having a heart attack? The Guia “T” is on it. What can’t it do? It is the Swiss Army knife of transit guides. Every major city in the world should have one. I believe that with only my trusty Guia “T” and AR$4 (in moneda form) I could be air dropped anywhere inside the city limits, day or night, and be back home in under two and a half hours. Try me. I dare you.

A chink in the transit armor is the great moneda shortage. The New Yorker has reported on this. The quick version is that the buses only take coins. In order to have money for the bus, people hoard their coins. This leads to a shortage of coins. Some small business owners won’t serve you if you need moneda change. This occasionally leads to things like trips to the supermarket where you buy a diet coke, two oranges and a pack of gum to make sure that your bill is just over AR$6 so that when you pay with a AR$10 you are guaranteed change for the bus. Not ideal. Along these lines, a similarly annoying problem is that the ATMs only dispense AR$100 notes. Businesses hate giving change for AR$100 notes and sometimes either won’t or can’t do it. If businesses don’t have change, and most things don’t cost anywhere near AR$100, then why dispense such large notes out of the ATMs? I have no idea.

Back to the transit system. Where things begin to break down is during rush hour on the Subte. Normally, the Subte is a breeze. You slide in your ride ticket and you go. The trains come regularly and, since they aren’t burdened with stops every two blocks, you can cover ground quickly. Then comes rush hour.

When rush hour arrives, one has to mentally prepare oneself before taking on the Subte. Sometimes I let a train pass by because I haven’t adequately psyched myself up. You see, the trains get so full that just when it seems impossible for another human being to fit in a car someone like a large old lady will build up a head of steam and smash her way in. The resulting momentum from people entering the train results in something approaching crowd surfing. You end up wherever the crowd decides.

Entering the train during rush hour also presents some risk of bodily harm. When trying to squeeze on, there is no gentle warning followed by a leisurely shutting of the gates. No, there is a short beep and then the doors slam shut with tremendous velocity. I have seen a grown man desperately struggle to hold the doors open after not quite making it all the way on. There he battled, man vs. machine, his messenger bag strap wrapped over his shoulder and his face a look of iron concentration. Finally the conductor, I suppose feeling that the poor chap had suffered enough, granted him a reprieve and allowed him another chance to squeeze on.

Exiting the train is your final challenge. When one has been unfortunate enough to have been wedged into the middle of a car, reaching the exit seems like swimming across the ocean. What one must do is begin a process whose roots, I believe, lie in the tango. You must start by shifting your weight, just a little, against the person next to you. Make sure you use enough force so that they understand your intention. Premature attempts to reach the door will result in angry shouts of, “Che!” and disgusted hand gesturing. When done at the appropriate time, the person next to you will shift their weight and a process of subtle moves and pirouettes unfolds that, almost as if by magic, results in a path to the exit. Fresh air at last.

The author's beloved Guia "T".

Just another morning on the Subte.