Welcome to Hayes Valley

As many of you know, The Other Way's headquarters is now in San Francisco.  It was a long, pleasant time on the road, but home beckons.  Readers will notice a San Francisco slant to posts.

As part of the move, I relocated to Hayes Valley.  Hayes Valley is a neighborhood that has been the focus of a massive re-birth effort.  For years the Fell Street off ramp from the 101 freeway dumped off traffic in the neighborhood.  The high speed traffic exiting the freeway and a large overpass combined to dull the desire of most San Franciscans to reside in the area.  In response, the city decided to do away with the offramp and prioritize urban redevelopment in the area, which included the development of a new urban park, Patricia's Green, which currently hosts the Ecstasy sculpture from Dan Das Mann and Karen Cusolito, a triumph of metal reclamation.  Where city planners point, developers, especially during boom times, follow.  Sure enough, Hayes Valley is now the home of several new mid-rise residential buildings, including the in one which I reside.

Change moves slowly.  Despite the fact that many fashionable shoe stores, a macaroon store and some fancy bakeries and boutiques have moved into the area, adjacent to Hayes Valley are still parts of the city that are unpleasant.

Recently, our building has been victimized by a number of burglaries.  In one successful operation, all captured on film while our security guard was away from his desk, a man entered behind a resident who opened the door, attempted to use the elevator to access one of the residential floors, discovered that one needed a fob to access the floors, returned to the lobby to look around, discovered the door to the garage is not locked, walked into the garage, cut several wire locks, and marched out of the garage with several bikes to add to his collection.  

The discovery of the theft, and video, provoked outrage amongst the residents.  Besides calling for the guard's head (which ultimately remained on his shoulders) the security committee was convened to brainstorm solutions.  Some of the recommendations the committee came up with were to build a fence around the bike area, invest in high resolution pan and tilt cameras, expand the security hours or, a personal favorite, park a security van in front of the building at night.  As these suggestions were considered, more bikes were stolen.  

After contemplating the the thief's methods, it appeared to me that our thief now understood that he could enter the lobby behind a resident and proceed directly into the garage to load up on that day's bicycle supplies.  To counter that strategy my idea was to simply lock to door to the garage.  That idea was floated, met with widespread acclamation and building management is now in talks with the Fire Department to ensure that we can lock the door to the garage without violating any safety codes.  In the meantime, residents are advised to prevent people whom we do not know from piggy backing in behind us as we enter the building.

As someone who takes security seriously, I have been diligent in making sure that people I do not know, which is pretty much everyone, do not piggy back behind me into the building.  The first time was last Saturday when a man was standing idly in front of the building and then began to follow me in when I opened the door.  I inquired as to whether or not he lived in the building, he said he did not, so I instructed him to check in with the the security guard and thought nothing of it.  The next evening I returned home late in the evening and encountered a man talking on the phone in front of the building.  When I entered the building, he began to enter behind me, at which point I informed that, I was sorry, but I couldn't let him in without seeing his fob.  He had a look of shock on his face, told me to go in and that he would let himself in, opened the door and entered behind me and then started loudly complaining that I wouldn't let him in.

The security guard on duty, who happened to be the same one as the previous night, stopped me and asked to speak with me.

"Why aren't you letting people into the building?" he asked.

"What?"

"Yesterday you didn't let a Filipino guy into the building and just now you didn't let Alfonso into the building."

"I don't know either of them."

"Yeah, but you didn't let the Filipino guy in yesterday either, do you remember that?"

"Yes, I remember that exactly.  I asked him if he lived in the building, he said no and I told him he needed to check in with you."

"Well, he lives in the building and so does Alfonso."

"You do NOT ask me for MY fob.  I have LIVED here for OVER a YEAR," Alfonso muttered in the corner emphasizing random words for effect.

"Ok, but I don't know them.  Wait, do you think that I should be letting people into the building that I don't know?" I finally questioned the security guard, amazed that I was having a debate over whether or not I should be following our building's security measures and deciding that perhaps I should find out this man's security philosophy, especially given that he was the one not at his desk when the video was filmed of the bikes being stolen.

"People don't like it when you ask them for their fob," he responded, not directly answering my question.

"I didn't mean to offend anyone, but, given the security issues, my understanding of the policy is to not let people into the building I don't know.  I'm sorry if anyone was offended."

At that point I exited the scene, dazed from the Seinfeldian situation.  Here I was being reprimanded by our building security guard for not letting people into the building whom I don't know and, to top it all off, there was a suggestion that perhaps I was racially profiling!  All this for following the building's security policies.

Welcome to the new Hayes Valley.

Sayulita

To celebrate Double S’s new gig we decided to take a quick trip.  After examining Double S’s list of dream places to visit, I vetoed most of them for fear of developing frost bite on what is meant to be a relaxing trip (snapshot weather forecasts for Copenhagen, Reykjavik and Anchorage: 0 C, 1 C and -1.9 C).  The conversation then turned to Mexico.  Several of Double S’s friends have spent time in Sayulita (temperature 27 C) and loved the place, and a visit there would further my goal of knowing every part of my Mother‘s homeland, so it seemed like a solid compromise.  Round trip flights from San Francisco to Pueto Vallarta for US$375 sealed the deal. 

Sayulita is an old Mexican fishing village 45km north of Puerto Vallarta.  To get there from the PV airport one has the option, presuming one is not renting a car, of throwing one’s business to one of the hundreds of cabbies camped out at the airport lying in wait (cost US$40) or, for the economically minded out there, to exit the airport, cross over the highway using the sky bridge and hop on a local bus headed to Sayulita, which come every 20 minutes until around 9:20pm (cost MX$25 or ~US$2).  The bus drops you off in the center of Sayulita and takes around an hour.

In the last two decades Sayulita has been “discovered” by Americans and Canadians, meaning that there are a lot of snowbirds and retirees that have chosen it to be their second home or retirement destination.  This has resulted in an abundance of homes and guest houses for rent on places like vrbo.com.  It has also resulted in the town being so overrun with Americans and Canadians that the crowd at Yo Yo Mo’s for the US-Canada gold medal hockey match must have been at least 100 people.  If you do not speak Spanish, have no fear.  There is not a spot in town that will trouble you.

As far as the food goes, the place specializes in seafood, especially shrimp and mahi-mahi. There is no shortage of places around town willing to sell you things like delicious fish tacos or shrimp burritos.  Breakfasts are also a town strong point with both Mexican and American style breakfasts available in numerous locations.  One of the (many) downsides of the gringoization of the town is that more classic Mexican food is hard to find.  The spiciness that Mexican food practically demands is rarely found and classics like enchiladas should probably be avoided. Only the street taco survives in something approaching its native form. 

During the right season, one can choose a day trip to go whale watching.  The humpback whales, wise creatures that they are, get the hell out of the Northwest during the winter and head to sunny Mexico.  There they frolic and give birth before turning around and heading back north.  To check out these large sunbathers, Double S and I contracted with a French expat we met to take us and a couple of other people out on his boat.  My expectation of the whale watching tour was that we would sail around on the boat for a little bit, maybe see a couple of whales in the distance, snap a few photos and go home.  If we were lucky, nobody would get seasick.  I was completely mistaken.

Our whale watching trip turned into something out of National Geographic.  We left early for our trip out of Punta Mita and, for the bulk of the morning, had the bay to ourselves.  We would see some whales spouting in the distance and head over to check them out.  After seeing a few whales swim by us before diving underwater, we found a mother and baby whale that were in a more playful mood.  The younger whale, perhaps excited to show its mother what it could do, proceeded to dazzle us with a series of jumps and flips that reminded me of something out of my childhood at Marine World, but in a carefree rather than joyless, workmanlike manner.  Not to be outdone, the mother joined in the action and demonstrated that she still had some hop.  All this was going on around 200 feet from our boat.  It was, frankly, spectacular.

Overall, for those looking for margaritas and beer on the beach or a good spot for surfing in a safe and beautiful environment, Sayulita is a great option.  For those looking for interactions with Mexicans, well, Sayulita is a nice spot for margaritas and beer on the beach.

Sayulita Fish Taco – It is a local institution and has the reputation for having the best fish tacos in the world.  I don’t know about that, but it is a cool spot with great fish tacos and excellent guacamole.

Burrito Revolution – Their grilled shrimp burrito is an excellent burrito.  The onions and shrimp were grilled to perfection.  The homemade salsas on the counter are also outstanding.

Rollie’s – A gringo breakfast institution.  I ordered eggs mixed with shrimp, peppers and cheese, which was good but enough for two people.  Rollie will probably treat you to a song and dance during your breakfast.  This is a great place for people with kids and those looking for a large western style breakfast. 

Whale Watching
Contact Stephane Panetta at: stephanepanetta@yahoo.com.  Stephane speaks French, English and Spanish.  The cost is US$80 for the RT taxi to and from Punta Mita and US$120 for 2 hours on the boat.  The boat can seat up to six people, so bring your friends in order to split the cost.

Come to Sayulita and play with the whales!

Mama showing the kids how it is done.


Photos courtesy of Double S

Nature’s Workshop or The W Trek in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

A common complaint heard amongst trekkers in the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is that good information on the park is hard to obtain.  This leads to groups huddled together in refugios along the trail whispering darkly about their favorite conspiracy theories.  Some think that this lack of available information is due to a government desire to maintain the park’s pristine nature by keeping visitors away, others think it is a set-up with the travel agencies to try and maximize the people that book tours through them and still others think it is a way for shops in Puerto Natales to cash in by having you rent every conceivable frill known to hiking man, a sad example of which turned into a proverb along the trail of “getting Florianed,” named after a poor German man who was talked into renting everything in the store.

To prevent The Other Way’s readers from getting Florianed and carrying around a 20+ kilo pack (44+ lbs)  for a three night trek where food and shelter can easily be provided and to enlighten a public ravenous for more information on Torres del Paine and The W trek, The Other Way is providing all of the tips and tricks you need to maximize your enjoyment of the park.  These tips assume a trip in the summer when there is daylight until 9pm or later and trekkers are walking the W trek from east to west.  Trekkers looking for information on the Circuit should look elsewhere.

Torres del Paine Park itself is located in Chilean Patagonia a two to three hours by bus from the town of Puerto Natales.  Puerto Natales is a town where trekkers tend to stay before starting their trip in order to finalize preparations for the trip.  Many hostels have a luggage drop, so it is no problem for longer term travelers with big bags to leave a bunch of smelly socks behind while they are out communing with nature and taking pictures of themselves standing in front of the Torres.  From Argentina, one can get to Puerto Natales via bus from El Calafate (about six hours through a painfully slow border crossing) or one can fly to Punta Arenas and catch a roughly two hour bus from the Punta Arenas airport.  I can’t comment knowledgeably on bus travel from Santiago or other parts of Chile.

From Puerto Natales there are daily buses in the morning and afternoon that one can take to Laguna Amarga, the eastern start of the trail, or further onward to Pudeto, where one can catch a boat to the western start of the trail at Refugio Paine Grande in order to begin the W in reverse.

The trek is called the W because it consists of an east to west hike with out and backs on the eastern and western edge of the trek along with another out and back in the middle, making the shape of a w.  Those hiking the W have to first decide whether or not they want to camp or sleep in refugios.  Please understand that “refugio” does not necessarily imply a basic shelter with inadequate heating.  The refugios at Paine Grande and Las Torres, for example, have full bars for those in need of a pisco sour.  The refugios are more like dorms of varying size and quality with huge mess halls.  Choosing to stay in the refugios immediately reduces the amount of crap you need to carry with you.  Double S and I carried our sleeping bags from Iruya in the north to Ushuaia in the south so that we had sleeping bags for the W.  That helped build back strength, but was completely unnecessary given that sleeping bags or bedding are available for rent in any of the refugios.  Unless one is staying at Refugio Grey, a towel is also unnecessary.  You can rent towels at the refugios.

The next decision one has to make is to pack in food or to eat at the refugios.  The refugios offer “full board” options which consist of dinner the night you arrive, breakfast the morning you leave and a boxed lunch (see below) to take with you on your hike to the next refugio.  Bringing only a few snacks and a bottle of booze in your luggage eliminates food weight.  As far as water goes, there is no need to carry in liters of water since, happily, the water in the park has not yet been polluted, so you can fill your bottles in a number of places along the trail or at the refugios.

For those choosing to stay in either the refugios themselves or to camp at the refugio campgrounds should book in advance.  There are two companies that manage the refugios.  Fantastico Sur manages the refugios on nights one (Torres or Chileno) and two (Los Cuernos) and Vertice Patagonia manages the refugios for nights three (Paine Grande) and four (Refugio Grey, for those choosing to stay an extra night).  One can book with them directly in advance and then pay via credit card closer to the day of your reservation.  There might be a few kinks, so be patient.    

Day 1 - Refugio Las Torres to the Mirador Torres del Paine Out and Back


The normal way to start your trek is to take the 7:30am bus from Puerto Natales, arrive at Laguna Amarga and then pay for a shuttle to take you to Refugio Las Torres, where you should arrive around 10am.  From there you can start the W.

The first day of the trek is a longish day, probably 6-7 hours of hiking RT, that brings you up to the Mirador Las Torres.  The hike is broken into three sections.  The first section, from Refugio La Torres to Chileno is a mostly uphill hike, followed by a flattish section that takes you to Campamento La Torres, where those camping and waking up early to watch the sunrise through the Torres will drop off their equipment, followed by a final steep, 45 minute uphill scramble to the Mirador.  The view of the Torres from the Mirador is fantastic on a clear day and the viewing area is large enough that even though there will be a lot of people at the Mirador, one can find a rock to relax on to eat lunch and enjoy the view.

Notes: For those staying at the refugio, here is where a critical piece of equipment can help to make or break your trip.  While Refugio Las Torres is a newer building with many amenities, the “six person dorms” do not have walls that go all the way to the ceiling.  This turns them into, effectively, 24 person dorms.  Unless you love the cacophony of snoring, wheezing and choking like sounds, one should pack ear plugs.  Those in need of a foot massage after a hard day’s hike can consider staying at the fancy Hotel Las Torres (www.lastorres.com) instead of the refugio.  

Day 2 - Refugio Las Torres to Refugio Los Cuernos

This is the shortest day on the trail, around 4 hours.  The hike has some reasonable up and downs as you walk along the hills along Lago Nordenskjold, but nothing overly strenuous.  At the end of the hike you end up at Refugio Los Cuernos.  There you can relax in the refugio, check out the water fall behind the cabanas and take your pick of a polar bear plunge in either the stream behind the cabanas or in Lago Nordenskjold.

Notes: There are cabanas available at Los Cuernos which look quite nice.  Good luck, though, they seem to book up well in advance.  Campers can choose to continue on 2.5 hours more to Campamento Italiano and reduce the amount of hiking required on Day 3.

Day 3 - Refugio Los Cuernos to Refugio Paine Grande

This is the longest and hardest day on the trail and offers trekkers a number of potential variations.  The first stretch of the hike is a casual 2.5 hour hike to Campamento Italiano.  From Italiano one can choose to do an out and back through the Valle de Frances to form the middle portion of the W while the weary can simply continue on to Paine Grande.

Those who do the out and back can leave their heavy bags at Italiano (locals claim there are never problems - do this at your own risk) and then perform an hour or so hike to the first mirador, where there are great views of Los Cuernos and Paine Grande.  If the weather cooperates, one can use this spot to sit down and have lunch.

As an aside, I am told that Los Cuernos were formed by sediment sitting on top of cooling magma.  When viewing the Cuernos one can see the distinct two tone rock colors which, to quote a Scottish geologist we met along the way, “looks like Hershey Kisses on top of the granite.”  The incredibly steep rock formations, from the base a number of the peaks go roughly straight up for 1,000 meters or more, is, I am told, due to the fact the nature is apparently still working her magic on the peaks.  The Cuernos, and the Torres for that matter, are still young enough that erosion hasn’t had time to do its work and turn them into rounded, lump like hills.  As far as the lakes go, the varying color of the lakes is due to the fact that Mother Nature needs to store her leftover sediment somewhere and she chooses the adjacent lakes.  The varying amounts of sediment mix with the water to give the lakes a full palette of colors from grey to turquoise to the darkest blue.  The whole set of dramatic peaks, lakes of varying colors and glaciers in the distance give one the impression that Patagonia is where Mother Nature experiments with various designs before choosing which ones to use on her world.

After the first mirador, there is another 45 minute walk through a set of woods to get to a second mirador which provides one with similar views to the first.  This is where most people turn around.  For the truly hearty, one can hike another 45 minutes to hour to get to the final mirador.  Andre, a guide the Scots hired and who was occasionally borrowed by us, said that he almost never goes to last mirador.  Andre says that if you decide to go you can see another set of five granite peaks.  I trust him.

From wherever you decide to turn around, you have to retrieve your larger bag at Italiano and then begin the final 2-3 hour walk to Paine Grande.  Happily, this is an easier stretch.  Nonetheless, if you went up Valle de Frances you are probably going to start getting tired on this part.  Relax, take your time, enjoy the view of Lago Skottberg to your left and Lago Pehoe in the distance.  When you finally reach Paine Grande you should head directly to the bar to grab a beer.  You will have earned it.

At Paine Grande, if you are staying at the refugio and traveling as a couple or with a snore-free friend, this would be a good spot to rent a superior room.  Some of them only have a double bunk in the room.  After spending your nights in the dorms at Las Torres and Los Cuernos, you will kiss the floor when you walk into your room.

Day 4 - Refugio Paine Grande to Refugio Grey


From here one has a number of options.  The boat back to the bus stop leaves from Paine Grande, so the temptation to skip the last leg of the W and simply hop on the first boat back is high.  The next level is to hike out 1:45 min to the first mirador in order to get a glimpse of Glaciar Grey (and sample the famous Patagonian winds on your walk) before heading back to catch the 12:30pm boat.   The next level up is to head all the way out to the mirador at Refugio Grey and back (3.5 hours each way) before catching the 7:30pm boat.  Finally, one can choose to stay the night at Refugio Grey the most, um, rustic of the refugios.  This is the one place where one should make sure to bring their own towel and soap.  Towels cannot be rented and soap appears to be in limited supply.  There is also a single double dorm room if one arrives early enough and sweet talks the woman at the front desk.

Overnighters at Grey have an additional set of options.  Highly recommended (thanks again M&M for the tix!) is an ice hike on Grey Glacier.  You can book the excursion from the guide outpost just across from Refugio Grey.  You then have a three hour ice trek where two guides will tour your group through the glacier and you will learn about glaciers (who knew that glaciers are essentially frozen rivers?), gaze down crevasses, see more amazing shades of blue and take all sorts of cool pix.  Another option, for the ice hike adverse, is to continue past Refugio Grey for another hour to Campamento Las Guardas, turn left through the camp to catch the next trail which you will then take to another mirador with a closer view of the glacier.  Either way, head out of Refugio Grey early the next morning to make it back for the 12:30pm boat.

Final Tips

Mr. Lightpack says: Don’t bother carrying a sleeping bag, towel or tent if you plan on staying at the refugios.  You can rent them.

Gourmet Glen says: You will begin to prefer llama fur to refugio boxed lunches after the third day on the trail.  Catch the shuttle for C$5,000 from the eastern trailhead to Refugio La Torres and pack your own lunch for days 1 and 2.  Your stomach and wallet will appreciate minimizing your boxed lunch intake.

Mr. Impatient says: People that are truly fit and on a tight schedule can skip the first night in Las Torres.  The way to do this is to catch the 7:30am bus from Puerto Natales, catch the shuttle to Refugio Las Torres (arrival time 10am) hike the six and a half hours out and back to the Mirador Las Torres and then continue on for four more hours to Refugio Los Cuernos.  The sun sets late in the summer, so there is plenty of daylight.  It is insane, but you can tell your friends about how fast you are and what great shape you are in!        


Select Costs
Bus from Puerto Natales (round trip): Ch$15,000
Shuttle from Laguna Amarga to Refugio Las Torres: Ch$5,000
Boat from Paine Grande to Pudeto: Ch$11,000
Park entrance fee: Ch$15,000
Full Board Refugios (bedding and towels are extra): US$68-US$71/pp/night Note: One can book multiple combinations of bed type and meals.  Contact refugios for details.
Ice Hike: US$140/pp

The view of Las Torres from the mirador (photo courtesy of Double S)

Los Cuernos

Glaciar Grey



















Caroline and Roeland demonstrating the appropriate amount of gear to carry for those staying in refugios.

The Northwest

Northwest Argentina is blessed with stunning rock formations, wine areas where you encounter the bizarre spectacle of cacti growing on the hillsides above the grapes and delicious empanadas.  In some ways, going there is a little like visiting Bolivia with things like salt flats, roads with ridiculous descents and people everywhere trying to get you to buy alpaca crap.  The difference is that the roads tend to be paved and the people selling all the knitted alpaca goods are usually wearing jeans and baseball caps.  Even so, towns like Purmamarca and Cafayate are peaceful places after the tourist colectivos have loaded up and begun the long drive back to Salta.  The few stragglers and locals that remain behind get to soak up areas of stunning natural beauty in comfortable hotels charging reasonable rates.

The highlight of a trip to the area is an overnight stay in Iruya.  Iruya was described to me as a magical place and that description is not far off the mark.  In order to get there Double S and I arranged to be dropped off in Humahuaca, the last town before Iruya, where we would get picked up for a ride to Iruya.

We ultimately got dropped off in front of a restaurant where we were told the driver was inside.  He was the cook dealing with the lunch hour rush.  When he finished cooking he loaded us and two other passengers into the car for the drive out.  We got talking with our fellow passengers and found out that it was the manager of the hotel we would be staying at and his young son.

Most of the way down the descent from a 4000 meter mountain pass, all of a sudden as if carved out of the mountainside, a colorful little church appears, signifying that Iruya is near.  It is a spectacularly beautiful sight .

The town itself is inaccessible if it has rained a lot and the river is running too deep.  Our driver told me a story of how a bunch of the kids from Iruya went to HUAA for a party and then found out due to the rains they would have to stay for three extra nights.  Party time in Humahuaca!

When we arrived in Iruya we met our hotel manager’s wife and daughter, who live at the hotel.  When dinner time came around Double S and I were enjoying our llama dishes (mine with white wine sauce, hers with Roquefort), and the son, Bernardo, came to our table to show us his new pet, a two week old lamb, Bianca.  His Mom then proceeded to demonstrate to him how to feed the lamb with a bottle.  Afterwards, Bianca pranced around the house, following the Mom and gnawing on whatever curtain happened to come across her path.  Apparently a neighbor’s sheep had a bunch of lambs and gave one to the family so that Bernardo could have a pet.  Iruya is that kind of place.

Recommendations:
An overnight stay in Purmamarca, home of the magnificent Cerrro de los Siete Colores
The best empanadas in Salta at Doña Salta or El Corredor de las Empanadas
Carpe Diem Bed and Breakfast in Salta.  A lovely building, a welcoming couple who owns the place and a tasty breakfast.
Wine tasting in Cafayate, with Bodega Nanni particularly recommended as a nice place to taste.  It is tough to beat a good Torrontes for 18 pesos.
A visit to see Bianca in Iruya.

Iruya from the distance

Crazy wine mural in Cafayate






Los Castillos rock formation in the Quebrada de las Conchas


(Photos courtesy of Double S)

Casa da Feijoada

They have a local specialty in Brazil called feijoada.  Feijoada, legend has it, is a dish that the Brazilian slaves created out of the left over parts of the pig that the Portuguese nobles didn’t want, combined with the other ingredients available to them (beans, salt, chili, etc.).  The slaves made these things into a stew which, in today‘s form, results in a bubbling cauldron of an almost purplish liquid that is served at your table, usually accompanies by traditional sides like rice, collard greens, farofa (toasted and seasoned manioc flour), aipim (fried yucca) and torresminho (pork rinds).

In order to sample this famous Brazilian dish, Double S and I high tailed it to the Casa da Feijoada in Rio.  This is a famous place for eating feijoada in Rio.  Besides being the specialty of the restaurant, there are feijoada pot symbols everywhere, on the plates, on the glasses, on the coasters, on everything.  There are even feijoada pot shaped light fixtures.  It was a little odd.

When the feijoada came out, it was enormous.  A portion for one was definitely big enough for two.  The waiter kindly set the feijoada up for the two of us (who knows what to do with aipim?) and we dug in.  As we began picking our way through the assorted pork parts in the stew, Double S almost threw up when she spied me slurping up a pig’s ear.

The feijoada, in my mind, sums up Brazilian food.  It mostly sucks.  It sounds good on paper (fish, ok, coconut, sure, rice and beans, fine) but, somehow, it never seems to work out the way one would hope.  The only thing that seems to work out are all things fruit related: juices, acai and caiprinhas.  Those should be consumed en masse.  Most other things should be avoided.

Here are a few recommendations of places in Brazil that served tolerably good food.  The list is longer than one might think on pizza because there are wood burning ovens everywhere and, blissfully, that cheese of cheeses, mozzarella di bufala is plentiful.

Carlota, Rua Dias Ferreira 64, Rio: Fine dining in a romantic spot in Leblon, one of Rio‘s more upscale neighborhoods.  Double S’s sole dish was perhaps the best sole that I have ever eaten.  Double S couldn’t stop raving about her fettuccine side dish.

A Brasileira, Rua Pedro Longo 175, Itacare: An unexpectedly nice restaurant in the middle of a Brazilian surfer town.  The bolinhos (deep fried rice balls stuffed with deliciousness) were the best I had in Brazil.  The caiprinhas were also excellent.

Pizzaria Boca de Forno, Rua Lodônio Almeida 108, Itacare: An excellent thin crust pizza place.  The vegetarian special was fantastic.  I could have eaten a whole one myself.

O Passo, Rua São José 56, Ouro Preto: As you walk down the cobblestone streets of Ouro Preto in the evening you encounter jazz music coming from the upstairs patio of one of the lovely colonial buildings that fill the town.  The second floor deck at O Passo is the source of that music.  The views, atmosphere and fantastic pizza make this a great spot to unwind after walking up and down the streets in town.  I loved the pizza.  Seriously, I loved the pizza there.

When it comes to Brazilian food, stick to the fruit.

A bubbling cauldron of feijoada

A plate of feijoada, all ready to eat.  Watch out for the ears.

Lapa

In Sao Paulo they have bars where you sit down and, after ordering your round, your table is given a bingo like card with X’s marked to indicate how many beers you have ordered.  Fair enough.  What is different is that there are a bunch of men walking around with draft beers on trays.  Once they spy a customer who has finished his beer, they rush over to replace his or her beer without any prompting.  Sometimes, if they feel you are being just a tad bit of a , um, lollygagger, they will place another beer in front of you when you are only about half finished.  Drink up before we have to embarrass you in front of your friends again, wuss.

In Salvador they love their Tuesday nights.  Tuesday nights are the nights where bands play free music throughout the old city and, to finish it all off, a drum band marches through the streets and picks up a rag tag assortment of locals and tourists who drink beer and march along with them.

In the Bahian beach towns there are some places where vendors stand all along the sand ready to serve you a mixture of the fruit of your choice and a lot of cachaca.  In other towns it is forro dancing several nights a week and stores that don’t open until 4pm or 5pm, likely due to late nights out followed by long days on the beach surfing.

Then there is Rio.  Almost everyone knows about Carnival and the crazy party that occurs during that festival.  While walking along the beaches of Ipanema one is struck by the thought that it would be a marvelous place to spend New Year’s.  Apparently Cariocas (people from Rio) have that covered, too.  December 30th is meant to be the night where people dress in white, gather on the beach, build bonfires and make offerings to the orixa (kind of goddess) of the sea.  December 31st is then total mayhem on the beaches with concerts, partying and fireworks.  Surely all of that is just for special occasions and the town is normally fun, but not crazy.  Wrong.

I now consider Lapa in Rio to be the top party neighborhood in the world.  Not eating or fine dining.  It is a party neighborhood.  I was completely unprepared for what I encountered there on an, as far as I know, random Friday night.  As you enter the neighborhood in the evening you are immediately struck by the number of people that are out on the streets.  It isn’t just on one main block.  People are out on many blocks.  One of the benefits of people being spread out over such a wide area is that you do not experience a Bourbon Street style crush of people.  There is room to move.  There are clubs with electronica, samba, forro and seemingly every other kind of music you can think of.  There is music in the streets and even in a tent looking thing that has been set up for concerts.

For those that dislike the dance floor, there are some great bars.  At the entrance to the busier bars a hostess will find out how many are in your party and direct you to a table, which ensures that the place does not get too crowded.  Someone will immediately come to take your drink order and, if it is a beer, walk over to one of the conveniently located beer fridges (which have LED displays with the temperature inside the fridges, lest a fridge get too warm) and return quickly with your drink.  Only cocktails are referred to the bartender rather than wasting their time fetching beers.  A team of bar backs replace beers in the refrigerators when they get close to empty.  There is no possessiveness amongst the staff in terms of waiting on your table.  Tons of staff are patrolling the place and any can help you with a drink order.  Making sure customers drink as much as possible is their top priority.

If it is a nice night and you want to be outside there is an area in Lapa filled with street stands selling food and drinks.  Other areas have guys with portable kegerators pouring beers.  Or, while you are waiting in line to a club, someone might come up to you with a bottle of tequila and offer to sell you a shot out of a plastic shot glass.  Every eventuality is covered.

There are people of all ages out having a good time.  There are even families out drinking together.  Amazingly, all of this is happening in a neighborhood that is, more or less, adjacent to the financial district.  How Brazil has become one of the top performing economies in the world with all of this temptation, I have no idea.  God bless them.                    

¡Ten Cuidado!

Once upon a time, the group I worked with bought an office complex in Salt Lake City out of foreclosure.  As one can imagine, the building was in rough shape and the extreme weather in Salt Lake did it no favors.  The building had a lot of problems, but, seemingly most important to me, was that the building was mostly vacant and losing money.  My boss had a different idea.  He was freaked out about the problems with the walkways.  He demanded that the, “trip hazards,” be fixed immediately.  Whenever I saw him, almost inevitably the conversation turned to the trip hazards and whether or not they had been fixed.  Reprimands would follow if acceptable progress had not been made.

It seemed that my boss was overreacting at the time, but, ultimately, I think his paranoia was justified.  My boss understood that, “the pursuit of happiness,” defined by our founders is partially code for an ability for the common man to pursue wild land speculations, questionable gold mining ventures, to provoke wars with unsuspecting foreigners, or whatever else might strike his fancy, all in the name of getting rich as quickly as possible.  This dream was to be accomplished minimal government interference or, preferably for the well connected, with explicit government support.  This tradition continues in our own times with a breed of lawyers, envious of what Jay Gould helped pioneer on Wall Street, getting in on the game by encouraging lawsuits for the slightest infractions.  One slip on a snowy day and our project might have been sunk.

In Buenos Aires there is no such tradition.  There is instead a more cavalier attitude towards public safety.  One day one will wake up and walk down a street towards a major intersection, say the corner of Armenia and Costa Rica in Plaza Armenia, and one will observe the unusual sight of cars backed up for several blocks when normally they would be free flowing.  Following their sad path leads to a large pile of rocks in the middle of the street at the intersection to indicate that work has begun on the street.  The sidewalk and road are completely torn up, there are gaping holes everywhere, with no indication of when the work might finish and, oftentimes, no barriers of any kind with the exception of a pile of rocks to prevent traffic from driving through.  A friend has observed that it would not be easy to be blind in Buenos Aires.  There is nothing to prevent you from tripping and breaking your neck when crossing a street you had safely crossed a thousand times before.

Another, more alarming, problem is that the Porteños have thought long and hard about it and decided that fire safety is less important than securing their buildings.  Not only do fire exits not exist, but the front doors require a key to exit from the inside.  If you are visiting a friend and a fire breaks out, you had better hope that you are able to get to the apartment and building entrances with someone who has a key.  Otherwise, good luck with the jump.

Plutarch tells the story that Caesar, upon seeing rich foreigners visiting Rome and lavishing attention on their pet dogs and monkeys, asked them whether or not they bore children in their country.  Plutarch goes on to teach that humankind’s gifts should be directed towards affection to one’s fellow man and the pursuit of virtue instead of lavishly applied on other objects.  In Buenos Aires they have different ideas.  That leads to the biggest public safety hazard in the city.

They love their dogs in Buenos Aires.  I have never seen a city with so many different dogs.  A favorite travel photo for many is of the dog walkers of Buenos Aires, people who might take three, five or ten different dogs out for a walk on a given day.  These walkers manage the dogs under their care with the kind of control that leads one to believe that Cesar Milan must have secretly spent time in Buenos Aires to learn his craft.  What these dog walkers and the dog owners don’t love, however, is cleaning up after their dogs.

There is dog crap everywhere.  It is unbelievable.  You try to lie in the grass in the park, you are surrounded by crap.  You walk around in any neighborhood, even the fanciest ones, and the sidewalk is covered in dog crap.  All a tourist wants to do is walk around BA’s neighborhoods and enjoy the architecture, but you cannot.  Other people and cars be damned,  your eyes are glued to the ground.  The worst is after a rainy day.  What would otherwise be mostly harmless after drying out is reborn to once again give challenge to your shoes.  What is that smell?  If the Kirchners would do something to combat this evil I think the Monumento de los Españoles should be torn down and in its place a new bronze monument should be built of Cristina and Nestor vigilantly guarding their fair city from this disgusting menace, each with a scooper in hand.

This entry ends The Other Way’s first chapter: Life in Buenos Aires.  After seemingly an eternity, my dearest Double S has arrived and we have left for the wilds of Brazil and to explore deepest, darkest Argentina.  I will try and update as frequently as possible.  Stay tuned.